Friday 2 October 2015

Pendine to Laugharne 25 June 2015


We went straight to Pendine Beach to search for shells, the tide being well out in the morning.  We could only walk half a kilometre along the beach, however, before red flags signalled the boundary of yet another military firing range, which ensures that almost all the shore (9km) is out of bounds.  This particularly applies to the vast dunes, of which only a tiny fragment remained for us to inspect.  There were plenty of pyramidal orchids here and sea bindweed, and a small group of seaside centaury.  Virginian rose had escaped into the scrub here, too.  At the top of the shore were a few plants of saltwort.  On the sands we were pleased to find a shell of Thracia phaseolina, Pendine Sands being one of its known localities.  It was frustrating to have to leave this potentially interesting shore and spend the rest of the morning walking beside the A4066, the boundary of the military zone coming right up to it, although most of the way there was a walkway either beside the road or along the edge of agricultural fields bordering it.  A ditch at the beginning had brookweed, broad-leaved pondweed, ragged robin, and marsh bedstraw, while a stream later on provided more wetland records, including marsh yellow-cress, brooklime, and river water-crowfoot, with its large flowers held well above the water.  At one point we briefly spotted a grey wagtail.  From the appropriately wet-sounding Plashett we had to walk in the road itself, although it was not too busy, for almost a kilometre before turning right on to a minor road and right again along a footpath directly underneath a steep knoll on which Broadway is situated.  This route was also agricultural until we reached a saltmarsh (fenced off!) bordering the Afon Taf estuary, where there were some common saltmarsh plants and little egrets.  We left this to climb up the knoll at its far eastern end, with seats and views over the Taf towards the top useful for lunch.  There were interpretation boards at intervals as part of a Dylan Thomas trail, for we were coming into Laugharne where he spent most of his early life and described much of the local scenery in his poems, some of them quoted on the boards.  This wooded walk led directly into town close to the castle ruins. 
                After coffee in a teahouse we had over an hour to wait for the bus back and so had time to amble around the centre of town and visit the castle, which was less interesting than that at Pembroke, although one of the towers had a “must-see” domed ceiling (!), a gazebo used as a writing-room by Dylan Thomas, and grounds including quite an old sweet chestnut tree. 
                When we had collected our car from Pendine we drove back to Laugharne to find, with some difficulty the Cors Restaurant with Rooms, which is secreted away down a side street (no signs, not even at the entrance).  The cooking was spot-on but simple, depending on good fresh local ingredients, although we did not like the over-loud music played continually in the dining rooms.
Laugharne Castle

Thracia phaseolina
Seaside centaury

River water-crowfoot
Taf Estuary

Brown's Hotel has Dylan Thomas as its inn-sign


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