Tuesday, 21 October 2014

Trefasser to Porthgain 11 July 2014

Logs from the drowned forest Aber Mawr

Corn marigolds

Abercastle harbour


We caught the 9.39am bus from Porthgain (Strumble Shuttle) to Trefasser Cross and walked back to the coast path where we left it the day before.  The cliffs were initially quite high, though the path remained above the coves and relatively flat, but as we turned the corner from the headland there were more descents and ascents over rocky terrain.  The usual heath species were present, including orpine, and fritillaries were flying (dark green certainly, perhaps high brown as well) along with graylings.  We encountered one of our largest flies, Tachina grossa, an inhabitant of heathland, where it parasitises certain moths.  Many of the cliffs accommodated nesting fulmars.  Descending streams made for harder walking but increased the range of species, including royal fern, hard fern and brookweed.  We reached the long sandy beach of Aber Mawr about noon and had lunch there, beside sand martins flying to and fro from their nest-holes at the top of the higher sandy banks.  The beach had what appeared to be large driftwood logs buried in the sand and shingle, part of the remains of a forest drowned at the end of the Ice Age 8000 years ago.  Behind the beach was a large reed-marsh from which water poured down continuously in a wide swathe through the high pebble bank at the top of the beach (created by a storm in 1859, but altered again by last winter's storms) and covered the whole middle half or more of the sands in a shallow sheet of water, only the end sands being dry.  There were no shells at all!  At the southern end above the beach beside the path was a strange tunnel of brick walls that went underground for about ten yards before it ended with spots of sunlight from above indicating that there must be a hidden hole underneath the bracken above the track.  This may have been remains from the short-lived attempt to build a port here in 1848, employing IK Brunel.  The rocks are Cambrian with rhyolitic volcanic intrusions.  At the beach and on the next section of the path the vegetation was particularly limited in variety, although we eventually came to a short path side section that was packed with a dense colony of seeding spotted orchids, accompanied by the seeds of spring squill – perhaps indicating a volcanic dolerite or gabbro intrusion.  Castell Coch, a headland made of rhyolitic tuffs, and Pwllstrodur provided excellent sea-rock scenery.  We came to a series of arable fields where masses of corn marigold nestled among golden barley – a joyful sight.  These fields also gave us several other arable annuals and the whole field margins were colourful with plants such as tufted vetch.  On the cliffs approaching Abercastle was a large colony of Russian vine, far from habitations.  The next significant bay was the long rectangular one of Abercastle, where there was a small island just off the coast and many boats harboured.  Despite there being many houses around there was no ice-cream outlet that would have been welcome at this stage on a hot sunny day, so we continued quickly after using the loos and checking the small stony beach (yielding 3 species of shell, but mostly common limpet).  The scenery was magnificent the whole way, with many sea-stacks and rocky islets and several large bays had to be negotiated before the large one at the bottom of the road from Trefin, which came to the edge of the cliff-top for a short way.  It was some relief when the path from here to Porthgain was almost wholly level above the cliffs, making for quick progress.  The last arable field before the village again had corn marigold.  Porthgain has large incongruous brick walls massed on the western side of the cove, the remains of a large works for making road metalling from crushed slate, which was then shipped from the harbour and sent all over Britain.  There was also an old lime-kiln where limestone quarried elsewhere in Pembrokeshire was converted into lime for fertilising fields.  It is a pleasant little village with art-galleries, a few holiday cottages and large open space for a recreational grass area and a car-park just above the harbour, still used by fishing boats.  Plants here included common evening primrose.  We were happy by then (it was 5pm) to be able to get refreshing drinks at The Sloop Inn before we went to The Shed restaurant at 5.30pm for dinner of their famous fish meals, which made a splendid end to a long but rewarding day.

The harbour

The workshop

Common evening-primrose
PORTHGAIN

Information board

Remains of slate-crushing works
The Sloop

The Shed, the Shed dog and Val

The Anchor

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